Did you know that Japanese cultural elite used to wear 12 layers of kimono? You might need all 12 yourself to venture out in the cold to see the School of Human Ecology's new exhibition, "Crafting Kimono."

Kimonos in the Design Gallery exhibit, which opened Oct. 31 and runs through Feb. 3, are carefully selected from the Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection by its curator, Rebecca Kasemeyer. The exhibition is a cultural complement to the collection of Japanese prints in the Competition & Collaboration: Japanese Prints of the Utagawa School in the Chazen Museum of Art.

During the opening reception Sunday, Japanese textile scholar Dr. Mary Dusenbury, formerly of the Center for East Asian Studies at the University of Kansas and acting curator of Asian art at the Spencer Museum of Art, gave a lecture on “Art and Politics of Clothing in Historic and Early Twentieth-Century Japan." Dr. Dusenbury detailed the historical evolution of the kimono throughout the turbulent years of Japan, beginning in the 12th century in the Heian period. Many layers of the kimono started disappearing as military rulers of Japan emphasized frugality. In fact, the kimono we see today is similar to the closest layer worn next to the body during the Heian period.

Crafting Kimono highlights the patterns, techniques and materials of the kimono found in Japan after the early 20th century. Multiple symbolic meanings of the kimono are constructed through them. For instance, you can tell a seasonal style of kimono by its pattern. Cherry blossom, peony and morning glory are associated with spring or summer; fall or winter styles correspond to chrysanthemum, maple leaf and bush cover.

Furthermore, the materials used for garments reflect the wealth and social status of a wearer. A wide range of tie-dying techniques, called "shibori," is the dominant method for dying garments. The process of shibori "ties" the memory of its making into the garment. The color used in dying is sometimes linked to a Kabuki actor, and the actors' stage costumes often inspired both kimono designers and aristocrats alike.

As the national dress of Japan, the kimono mirrors national cultural values and identity. Yet because of its high price and the influence of Western clothing trends, the kimono has been in and out of fashion. In addition, if made by hand, it takes two years to produce a kimono. However, the rise of the department store has made kimono sales easier and more affordable. These days, the kimono is worn during national holidays, weddings and other formal events.

The Crafting Kimono exhibition displays a wide range of kimonos for a variety of occasions. Seeing the marked difference in technique and class, you'll find it hard to believe it came from a single collection. In fact, coming out of the gallery makes you excited about the next journey toward aesthetic satisfaction, or toward a flea market to find your own kimono.

Oct. 31, 2007 – Feb. 3, 2008 (closed Dec. 17 – Jan. 22 for winter break)