They say a cat has nine lives. In the case of Dotty Dumpling’s Dowry, the cat is getting a run for his money.
Dotty’s was forcibly relocated or shut down three times during its 28-year history. Perhaps the multiple moves are fate — Dotty’s is, after all, named for one of Arthur Conan Doyle’s traveling circus characters.
Regardless, the most recent battle was particularly bitter. Culminating in 2001 to make way for the Overture Center, Dotty’s owner Jeff Stanley was forced to vacate his location on North Fairchild. Stanley explained, “It was tough — I had a good business and I was sick of having to move.”
Initially, Stanley was forlorn. “I kind of became a couch potato — I didn’t know what to do or where to go.” After an endless search for possible locations, Jeff Stanley found a new home for Dotty’s at 317 N. Frances St. Like a prize-fighter who takes punches, stumbles, but is never knocked out, Dotty’s reopened for business again Oct. 9.
Fans familiar with Dotty’s knew what to expect — delicious burgers, great hot dogs and spicy chili. Just like the previous location, the space is filled with the same interesting memorabilia, such as a stuffed bear, a few model airplanes, the giant Wisconsin pennant, and an unusual assortment of vintage posters. Every item has a story, but prominently featured near the entrance is Jeff Stanley’s favorite piece — a motorcycle sculpture he acquired in 1967.
With the exception of a lower ceiling, Dotty’s is as cozy and quaint as one can remember. There is, however, one major twist — Dotty’s now features a full-service bar.
Beer and burgers go together like beer and peanuts, or beer and pretzels: the combination is simply meant to be. The earlier locations also featured beer, but this is Stanley’s first attempt at a full-blown bar. “It completes our restaurant,” he said.
The early reaction is nothing short of positive. Given that tables are now based on a waiting list, rather than first-come, first-serve, the bar whets customers’ appetites with top-notch brews and solid cocktails. “We sometimes face waiting times [of] over an hour, but people seem to mind it a lot less when they see the bar,” manager Matt Marks explained.
Long and L-shaped, the custom-made wooden bar is both comfortable and inviting. While food is offered throughout, stools and cocktail tables separate the bar from the booths in the dining area.
Apart from its own distinction within a restaurant, a bar must deliver quality drinks in a timely fashion. To prevent any initial missteps, Stanley and Marks have put together an all-star team behind the counter, made up of current employees from Paul’s Club and the Great Dane. “We all have worked together before,” Stanley said, “and I need people who know what they are doing.”
Although the back bar is neatly organized, showcasing top-shelf spirits, the focal point is 25 taps lined up together in a continuous row. Beer is the undisputed king of Dotty’s domain.
The selection is equally impressive. Marks said, “We wanted to give a full-range of choices, but people are really drinking up our mid-level beers.”
In the middle category is Spotted Cow, Dotty’s top seller. Also popular is the New Glarus Fat Squirrel Nut Brown. Perfect for a fall day, these beers sell for $3.50 a pint or $10.50 for a real-deal, heavy-glass pitcher.
Those looking for a bargain will be pleased to find Pabst and Blatz on tap for $2 a pint and $8 a pitcher. In the near future, Dotty’s will be offering boots of beer. These were very popular at its previous location, and are certain to find a welcome audience in its new digs.
Bloody Marys made from scratch are another popular drink, and are available for $5 to $6 depending on the vodka. “We think our secret is the pickle spear,” Marks said.
Mixed drinks are priced at $3.50 to $5. A Cosmopolitan is $6.50, and premium martinis top off at $7.
Dotty Dumpling’s Dowry always will be the self-proclaimed “World Burger Headquarters.” In some ways, Dotty’s has merely grown up in its new location by adding a bar. Now that it has come of age, let’s hope that this Madison tradition sticks around for years to come.
Bartime will sample some of the tasty cocktails at Madison’s Dining and Diversions this weekend. Madison’s is located at 119 King St. Cheers!