The basic premise of Crave Restaurant and Lounge is risky for a city like Madison. Will the concept of higher-priced drinks and upscale food in a casual, yet sleek environment succeed in a city more accustomed to bratwurst and Pabst Blue Ribbon?
Owner Eric Fleming certainly believes so. “I think in the future, especially with the pending opening of the Overture Arts District, Crave will fit an un-filled niche,” he explains.
Located on the busy and visible corner of West Gorham and North Henry Streets, Crave Restaurant and Lounge opened less than a month ago. From its interior design to its drinking and dining menu, it is a departure from the traditional Madison landscape.
The aesthetic is simple, clean and modern, with a lounge and nightclub feel. A neatly stocked bar showcasing only premium spirits is surrounded by an L-shaped granite-colored counter. Adjustable barstools — a luxurious touch — surround the bar, which is accentuated by paneled lighting. The exposed ceiling, lime-green hues, large mirrors and delicate lighting fixtures create a relaxed and airy environment.
The total package looks like it jumped out of the pages of a trendy magazine. But since this is Madison, owner Fleming tries to keep the pretension in check. “You can come in here dressed to the hilt, or in jeans and flip-flops,” he adds.
While style alone will draw shallow Paris-Hilton wannabes, it is value, substance and product quality that will generate repeat visits. Since many students base their entertainment decisions on economics, Crave could possibly become a place for the infrequent special occasion, or attract a demographic unaware that they have left the coast for a Midwestern college town.
The extensive martini list features decadent and well-mixed drinks. Offering one of the few twelve-ounce martinis in town, these treats are available for $9.00 each. An instant reaction is sticker-shock, and unfortunately the subtleties of a larger pour are easily lost on an age-group only a year or two removed from a fake ID.
The higher quantity and good taste does soften the blow. The Pineapple Infusion Cosmopolitan is delicious, featuring a pineapple round infused with Absolut vodka — Crave’s version of “rail” liquor. The Chocolate Martini is one of the best in town, made with Absolut vanilla and Godiva white or dark.
One of the more interesting drinks Crave offers is fresh Sangria. The right balance of fruit, liquors and wine make this a delightful surprise. Priced at $6.00, these are so good you will be hoping you have enough to buy more than one.
An extensive beer selection is available as well. Domestics are priced at $3.50, and microbrews range from $4.50 to $5.50. Keep in mind, however, that this is not your average beer bar.
Recently, I heard a patron ask for a beer and a Wild Turkey shot. The bartender stood bewildered and asked, “What is a Wild Turkey?” This is the type of place where aged Macallan Scotch — not Kentucky Bourbon — is the norm.
Crave does many things right. “The staff is full of energy, the food is fit for a king, and the liquor is of the highest caliber,” employee and UW senior Mark Henning accurately explains.
It will take some time before Crave develops its own unique bar identity. One reason is the ridiculous stipulation placed by the risk-averse ALRC — the last call is 11:30 p.m., and the doors are shut at midnight.
Crave is classy, cool, stylish and expensive. Some might be turned off by such an atmosphere, and that is understandable. But if Madison is ready for places with a big-city price tag and attitude, then Crave is entirely cutting-edge.
This weekend, Bartime will explore the newly revamped Church Key Bar, located at 626 University Avenue. Cheers!
