Where: 1201 Williamson St. (formerly Coyote Capers)
Hours: 11 a.m. to bartime, food served 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Prices: $2.50 to $12.50, no reservations
Payment: Cash or credit card
A warm and friendly atmosphere, a steaming bowl of stew and a pint. Three things that almost any foot-sore traveler craves at the end of a hard journey — even if that journey is only from campus. And these things are just what this traveler found at the Weary Traveler Free House, located at 1201 Williamson St.
With walls made of heavy wood panels and a décor that includes vintage framed documents and photos as well as various string instruments hung along the ceiling, the Weary Traveler has a welcoming feel that suggests an idealized version of an Irish Pub.
The large wooden tables that tightly fill the space, combined with the happy din created by the people comfortably seated around them, add to this impression.
Throw in the fantastically large and sturdy tavern bar that dominates the back wall, as well as the small, well-placed stage to its side, and one can’t help but feel that the place could explode into jig and ale fueled revelry at any moment. And you wouldn’t mind a bit.
The menu is short and to the point, featuring mainly eclectic versions of pub-style food. It is also affordable, with most dishes priced at $7 or less. Heavy on soups, stews and sandwiches, the menu’s offerings include “The Ramblin’ Vegan’s Chili” — which can also come as its own polar-opposite by adding beef tenderloin points and “Neuski’s bacon.” There’s also “Traditional Jewish Chicken Soup” and “Bob’s Bad Breath Burger,” a sandwich of muscular proportion and flavor that includes cream cheese, caramelized onions and Pickapeppa sauce.
As a good Wisconsin boy, I insisted that we start with the “Wisconsin Cheese and Salami Platter” for two. With five cheeses and three meats (one of which was, oddly, the very non-salami-ish Capicolla ham), this platter would be perfect in the middle of any table surrounded by hands full of beer and cards.
Our main course choices included the “West of the Andes” sandwich with grilled tuna (it also can come with beef or roasted vegetables), avocado and chipotle mayonaise, and a very nice “Sea Bass Ceviche.” A classic Central and South American salad, here it was made with lime-cured sea bass, red onions, chilies, lemon juice and honey.
The highlight of the meals we selected was the “Hungarian Goulash.” This classic stew was full of large pieces of beef, potatoes, carrots and onions that were simmered in a rich, spicy sauce. Served in a large bowl (rather than the glorified cup you get at many restaurants) with an ample chunk of chewy bread, it made my soul cry out for a fire, a footstool and mug of dark lager.
Perhaps the only disappointment of the meal was the “Bob’s Bad Breath Burger.” The meat was cooked perfectly, and the bun was soft and chewy. But the bold flavors of the onions and the Pickapeppa sauce soon became overwhelming. The cream cheese added heaviness and weight but little flavor to the dish and eventually turned the whole thing into a sloppy mess.
This disappointment vanished quickly, though, with dessert. The only menu offering was “Cherry Pie ala mode,” which had a nice flaky crust and was stuffed with tart cherries.
Our friendly and informed server tipped us off that the chef was experimenting with another dessert that night, a chocolate and raspberry ice cream. We got one bowl, nearly fainted with joy, and ordered two more. Full of dark chocolate chips and whole raspberries, the creation was fantastic.
The same, incidentally, can be said for the place that was serving it.
