Film buffs and moviegoers will appreciate the atmosphere of the Grand Lobby Café and Lounge at the Orpheum Theatre.
But food connoisseurs, or anyone who appreciates decent service and quality food, will be extremely disappointed.
The ornate interior of the vintage, refurbished theater, with soaring ceilings, intricate moldings and antique chandeliers, boasts of high style. The Orpheum Theatre, 216 State St., across from the Civic Center, is a renovated university-area movie palace that was built in the 1920s and remains a testament to the days of the studio system.
While the Orpheum brings to Madison the best in independent and foreign films and concerts from artists spanning the musical spectrum, the aura of movie history doesn’t recover points for lousy service and cold food.
Situated between two staircases leading up to a balcony, the café could be arranged more efficiently for additional seating. The small cocktail-style table was so tiny I asked to be relocated for fear there wouldn’t be enough room for the plates.
The Saturday-only breakfast menu (9 a.m. to 1 p.m.) is affordable and offers favorite wakeup classics such as omelets ($5.50-$6), waffles ($4-$6) and pancakes ($4-$5). The plain waffles are presented as if they came straight out of a freezer box. Two waffles, both a quarter of the size of a Belgian waffle, arrived cold and without the slightest form of thoughtful presentation — just two square-shaped waffles on a plate.
It was extremely shocking to discover when the bill arrived that a glass of orange juice (no fancy mimosa here, just plain OJ) was $3, almost as much as the $4 waffles. What a rip-off.
The smoked salmon omelet ($6) is better, but not overly exciting. The egg is large and well prepared, but lacks the proper amount of red onions, one of only a few ingredients (the others being smoked salmon and a dill-horseradish cream cheese). Served with toast and piping hot hash browns that harbor a hint of onion flavor, the entrée is both tasty and filling.
If a simpler breakfast dish is preferable to jump-start the morning, the Granola Parfait ($4) could be a fabulous choice. Fresh mixed berries are layered between blankets of honey yogurt. And the dish looks as beautiful as it sounds.
The lunch menu is composed of typical all-American fare: sandwiches, soups, salads and pasta. A few fish dishes also make their mark on the menu. Each is reasonably priced and served with a vegetable, potato and bread.
In addition to the disappointment of the food, the service is atrocious. It took the waiter 15 minutes to bring beverages. He never returned to refill water glasses and disappeared from time to time, and entrees took 45 minutes on a morning when the restaurant was empty.
Despite the frustration and dissatisfaction with the breakfast meal, I had previously visited the Grand Lobby Café & Lounge about a year ago for dinner and was genuinely impressed. The Flank Steak ($17.95) is delicious and would appeal to any garlic lover. The only downside is that all items are served a la carte and it is an additional $2.95 for potatoes or green vegetables.
In the evening, the ambiance in the café is a little more intimate. The lights are dimmed even lower than usual, and votive candles flicker on the tiny tabletops, giving the restaurant a more sophisticated feel. Even though the dinner menu is pricier than breakfast, diners are getting better-quality food that is well worth the money.
Despite the bad experience with the Grand Lobby Café & Lounge at the Orpheum Theatre, the Sunday brunch ($14 a person for all you can eat) seems like a worthwhile endeavor.
The restaurant may have been experiencing an off day for service and preparation (being just two days after the fire that sparked a mob of fire trucks to sweep down State Street early Friday morning), but the Grand Lobby Café should be cautious if it hopes to retain its distinguished reputation as a destination for great eats and entertainment.
Until next week, happy dining!
