Has been read twice.
Badger Bistro
By Jamie Cohen
The cart phenomenon is anything but novel to the University of Wisconsin campus. Afternoons on Library Mall are filled with numerous carts featuring eclectic cuisine that spans from East African to Jamaican, but these carts are only available during the day. After a night at the bars, most likely involving the over-consumption of alcohol, you get hungry.
While pizza and burritos have always been popular trends due to accessibility, late-night food has been translated from a small restaurant to two carts, and both have been gaining popularity, especially at bartime. Jin’s Chicken and Fish has been around for years and Underdogs is the rookie in the game, but both carts offer cheap, fast, greasy food to satisfy your late-night munchies.
My original intent for this article was to highlight a rivalry between Jin’s and Underdogs that I thought was inherently present because they are both in the same market. But after speaking with both parties, it is evident that no tension is present and both owners and workers have generated an alliance and mutual respect for the other. According to Tony Endelman, who refers to himself as a “business associate” at Underdogs, “We are good friends with the people at Jin’s. We sell different food items, so there really is no competition. In fact, we like their food and they like ours.”
Jin’s is the veteran in the cart market and has not felt threatened by the newcomer. Establishing their spot in front of the Tau Kappa Epsilon fraternity on Langdon Street almost eight years ago, Jeff Okafo, a Jin’s worker, attributes their success to “[the] people [who] put in a lot of time and make a fresh, quality product from scratch.”
The menu is simple. You have your choice of the chicken sandwich ($4), which Okafo says is the best seller, or the catfish sandwich ($4). What makes these sandwiches generate and lure loyal devotees? Some say it’s the hot sauce that gives it a spicy kick. UW sophomore Derek Opert says, “nothing tastes better when you’ve been out drinking and having fun. There’s no better way to end the night. I’m willing to put up with the line, no matter how long it is, if I am in the area.”
Although sometimes the line is long, especially as the evening progresses, standees can pass the time by watching movies from a television that is encased in the cart.
While Jin’s offers a visual medium to keep their patrons in line, Underdogs utilizes music to keep the crowd rowdy, just the way they like it. When I visited Underdogs, the workers were operating quickly, yet seemed to be having a great time while they were doing it.
Underdogs, first introduced to Madison last April and located on Henry Street, is the brainchild of Chip Maurrow and Conrad Chase. After traveling with his band and returning to Madison, Maurrow teamed up with Chase, and the rest is history. Popularity spawned upon opening, and the trailer’s reputation for offering the best Chicago-style hot dogs ($2) and Italian Beef sandwiches ($4) has been infectious among avid late-night eaters.
Unlike Jin’s, Underdogs offers a special that gets you the most for your money: hot dog, fries and a drink for $3. The thick and salty cheese fries are also a huge seller. Dayle Dresden, a UW sophomore, says, “The cheese topping is not like the traditional nacho cheese sauce that you would get anywhere else.”
If the food options at Jin’s and Underdogs do not interest you, stopping by on your way home from the bars can provide some free entertainment. Both carts had numerous stories to share about people making out in line, fights breaking out and the inevitable “line cutter” getting the “asshole” chant. “I have seen just about everything,” says Okafo.
Wherever your preference takes you, either to Langdon or Henry Street, both establishments have faithful patrons and an economically suitable menu for students. Jin’s and Underdogs create a fun and amusing late-night atmosphere, which attracts many. So if bartime seems to be getting a little redundant, hang out at one of these late-night joints for a guaranteed great time. Until next week, happy dining!