Through the smoke-filled haze, the buzz of congenial voices, and the aroma of its legendary burgers, it does not take long to realize that the Plaza Bar and Grill is one of the crown jewels of the Madison bar scene. Today, as it has for decades, the Plaza effortlessly combines history, service, great drinks, and good-natured cheer to a level few bars can achieve. The Plaza, simply put, is a special place.

There is an obvious comfortable feeling to the bar — much like a well-worn pair of jeans, or the sight of a friendly face. The crowd is diverse and engaging. Dean Hetue, bartender for over 20 years at the Plaza, explains, “It is a melting pot where everybody from every place and every walk of life can come together.”

Indeed, it is not unusual to find a group of conservative-looking businessmen in suits at one table, and sitting in another, individuals with green hair, piercings, and tattoos. In the environment of the Plaza, however, the contrast does not raise any eyebrows.

The open attitude is reflective of the bar itself. Filled with plenty of room to mingle, a long bar to keep thirsts quenched, games to entertain, and rows of booths to sit back and relax, the Plaza offers something for everybody.

The music from the jukebox is similarly diverse, ranging from classic rock to hip-hop, which seems to be played more frequently than other genres these days. But the music does not dominate, and one can escape to the back room — filled with more tables and plastic chairs that look like they came from a high school — to engage in intimate conversation over well-made drinks.

“We aim to take care of the students and keep the drink prices low,” owner Jim Huss explains, whose family has been affiliated with the bar for over 60 years.

Take a look at the specials, and it is hard not to agree with Huss’ sentiment. Well known for its outstanding, if not legendary Wednesday 2-for-1 Long Island Iced Tea special, the Plaza offers 2-for-1 rail drinks Monday and $2 import bottles of beer Tuesday, all of which are within a student’s budget. Yet while the prices are reasonable, quality is never sacrificed.

One bartender enlightens us with a simple secret, “We just put a little bit more booze and a little bit more effort into every drink, and people keep coming back for more.”

Drinks are well poured, and the beer selection will bring a smile to any non-hard-alcohol lover’s face. With 10 beers on tap and about 40 bottled beers available, it is hard to be disappointed in the bar’s options.

The Plaza makes it easy to enjoy each drink. If waiting at the bar is not your style, or you just don’t want to give up a coveted round table at the rear of the main room, one of the many friendly waitresses will take your order. Even when the bar is crowded, your drinks will arrive quickly, and your empties will be cleared before you know it, stress-free.

When you do step up to the bar, service is not compromised. Working in front of the original back bar from the ’40s, the bartenders, even on a busy night, keep the party going. More importantly, according to longtime Plaza fan senior Diana Mack, is their demeanor and attitude. “The bartenders always make you feel that they are glad to see you,” she says, “which is something I can’t say about every bar.”

The motivation in keeping students happy is one reason for the Plaza’s long-lived success. Jim Huss proclaims, “If the students have fun, then other people in Madison will come on by and enjoy themselves as well.”

The Plaza certainly has a colorful legacy. There has been a bar, pool hall, or both, at the Plaza’s current site since 1918. When the 18th Amendment was passed, marking the beginning of Prohibition, the bar operated a speakeasy under the guise of a pool hall, allowing a privileged few the opportunity to imbibe.

Operated by a Wisconsin football player, the speakeasy eventually had its cover blown when 100 cases of Rhinelander were intercepted by the Feds. The operator got away and the crime was pinned on another, and it wasn’t until 1933 and the subsequent 21st Amendment that alcohol reemerged at the Plaza.

Although it is now a storage room beyond the back room, you can still see the rustic, log cabin-themed painted decorations of the illegal bar. Windowless and dark, you can almost imagine a group huddled back, enjoying their company and a drink or two in secrecy.

The large murals of Wisconsin scenery in the larger main room are another source of Plaza lore. In the late ’40s, the artist bartered his skills for food, drink, and some cash to head out west. “They were painted by a Mr. Pyne,” Jim Huss says, “but we don’t know his first name.”

The bar also used to feature a 14-lane bowling alley — upstairs. The last pin was dropped in the mid-’70s, and that specific date is the subject of further mystery. “We have pretty much had our share of everything,” Huss says with a chuckle.

Such stories, combined with a never-ending sense of fun, make it easy to develop a strong emotional connection to the bar. As for why he has been a bartender at the Plaza for so long, Dean Hetue simply says, “I don’t want to leave — I love this bar!”

Fortunately for us and our generation, we don’t need a secret password or knock to enjoy and love it as well.

Bartime will head outside for a few drinks in the late-summer sun along Lake Mendota at the Edgewater Hotel’s pier, tonight, Friday, Sept. 13, at 6:30 p.m. In the event weather does not cooperate, we’ll head inside to the Cove Lounge. The Edgewater Hotel is located at 666 Wisconsin Ave, at the corner of Wisconsin Avenue and Langdon. Cheers!