Mix one part political awareness, half a cup of social consciousness and a dash of sensuality; blend well and serve warm. No, this isn’t another recipe for fruitcake, it’s the delicious mix behind the International Slow Food movement, a craze that has taken off everywhere from Italy to Madison.
Founded in 1986 by leftist journalist Carlo Petrini in an effort to combat the mass production and homogenization companies like McDonald’s and Taco Bell have created, the Slow Food movement aims to promote local farmers and regional tastes.
In the words of founder Petrini on the Slow Food website, “The Slow Food movement deals with the culture of food. To defend biodiversity we have to defend small producers.”
When the first McDonald’s opened in Rome 17 years ago, Petrini decided something had to be done about a world trend toward dining that was too quick, poorly produced and without thought. Starting in the Piedmont region in Northern Italy, the original movement was meant to save small producers from extinction and revive and celebrate taste and the senses.
Four years later, the movement became international with the addition of Paris offices and a strong following started by word of mouth. Slow Food currently boasts more than 60,000 members in all five continents, with more than half of those members in Italy. The Slow Food headquarters in Bra, Italy, employs approximately 100 people and organizes everything from events staged to raise awareness of the movement, debates and even a publishing company, Slow Food Editore, which specializes in tourism, food and wine. The company’s catalogue now contains about 40 titles and produces “Slow,” a newsletter devoted to all things Slow.
The movement is so popular, in fact, there is even a group of “slow movers” in Madison. Founded by Tami Lax, co-owner of local restaurant Harvest, the Madison chapter (or “convivium,” as it’s called) of Slow Food boasts 330 members.
“I first heard about it as an international movement about 10 years ago, ” Lax said. “And then about five years ago I decided to form a local chapter. So far it has been extremely successful.”
Restaurants participating in the movement are designated by a snail sticker in the window, and local participants include Harvest on 21 N. Pinckney St. and Lombardino’s at 2500 University Ave.
“I strongly believe in Slow Food because I recognize that people’s lives have sped up and spun out of control, and (I) think it’s a good way to step back and reanalyze,” Lax said. “It’s a way to eat healthier and locally.”
Though the Slow Food movement has been likened to “Don Quixote fighting the windmills” by founder Carlo Petrini, recent enthusiasm for its slightly odd yet fun sociological, ecological and gastronomical goals may nudge the movement toward greater success than Petrini could ever have dreamed of. For more information on how to join, go to www.slowfood.com or call 1-800-SLOWFOO.
