Though “Biaggi’s” sounds like a shady crime mob surname, this Italian restaurant’s food is far from criminal. Chain restaurants may be the bane of small businesses’ existences, as they usually lack uniqueness, but Biaggi’s takes a realistic approach to traditional Italian food.

Originally started in Bloomington, Ill., Biaggi’s offers a unique look at corporate restaurant strategy. They want to make diners feel at home without having to cook. Biaggi’s arrived on the scene in Madison in 2000 and is one of the 22 locations throughout the U.S. — obviously the concept of casual elegance caught on.

Instead of Americanized spaghetti with meatballs, they offer authentic pastas, pizzas and entrees for all palates. From the inviting atmosphere to the dim lighting and vaulted ceilings, the ambience is elegant and relaxed. Little details make Biaggi’s stand out from the rest, like the olive oil, parmesan and cracked pepper plate that accompanies a basket full of delicious focaccia.

Sharing an entree and appetizer with a friend proves to be easy on the wallet. Appetizers such as the crab, artichoke, and lobster dip or the bruschetta platters hit the spot for under $10. Be warned, the crab dip is very rich and may over-satisfy diners as they wait for their entree. The dip comes on a large plate with triangle-shaped flatbreads surrounding it–“Here Comes the Sun” references may pop into the mind.

Biaggi’s manager Nate Olson shares the restaurant’s most popular dish, “the Penne Porcini … it’s not even on the menu, but we have to offer it as a special consistently or customers start to demand it!” He was indeed right. The Penne Porcini features mushrooms, basil, spinach and garlic over penne noodles with a creamy mushroom and olive oil sauce. The generous portions provide the perfect amount for two–or one with a voracious appetite.

If desert sounds tempting, beware of the tiramisu. “The most popular desert by far has got to be the tiramisu,” said Olson. This Italian classic features ladyfingers piled on top of goodness. The wine list offers an impressive variety that will nicely wash down the tiramisu.

Due to their off-campus location, one would assume customers come from a predominantly older demographic. However, “this past Saturday, we were sold out with homecoming parties,” said Olson. Admittedly, the typical customer is middle-aged, but the popularity of Biaggi’s among the UW Madison community is growing. “We do get a lot of students and their families because we offer a higher level of service and a semi-formal atmosphere for a reasonable price,” said Olson. Booths offer a more intimate dining experience for Saturday date-night canoodling, and large tables invite diners to bring “la famiglia.” Call ahead to make reservations, as the weekends get busy.

Take a moment — actually, take a few –and enjoy dinner Italian-style. Bask in the two-hour mealtimes that characterize Italian culture; yes, that may be the time equivalent of five email responses, but it will be much more rewarding.