Southern food has finally found its way to Madison with the opening of Julep, a recent addition to the dining scene on the east side. Though mac and cheese and cornbread grace menus across the city, Julep provides the isthmus with a more thorough approach to the classic Southern dishes.
The restaurant belongs to a three-part venture with coffee shop A-OK and wine bar Barolo, which all share with Julep the same space and the same parent company, Robina LLC. The concept is unique in its combining of these aspects of coffee, wine and a traditional sit-down restaurant setting.
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Upon entry, Julep’s signage is understated, but notably tasteful. A turquoise-colored, illuminated letter “J” adorns the doorway leading into the restaurant, which is the beginning of the charm that’s carried throughout the interior.
Once inside, the expansive bar is the next atmospheric component to turn heads. With sturdy white chairs against the high-top, the bar radiates warmth and the feel of a charming country kitchen. The low lights illuminate rows of liquor bottles against the back window of the bar, resulting in a soft incandescence that is matched by the delicate placement of a lone candle on each table.
These elements of the restaurant lends a romantic feel, while the life and spirit associated with Southern food grants a friendlier tone to the atmosphere.
Within the snack category on the menu, the cast iron cornbread is noteworthy for its crunchy exterior and strong cornmeal flavor. Preparing the cornbread with a cast iron skillet affords the bread a caramelized sugar quality and is a satisfying way to begin the meal.
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Buttermilk biscuits and grilled Virginia oysters also stand out on the snack menu as must-try Southern fare.
The little plate portion of the menu is similarly inspired by classic dishes of the South. From mac and cheese gratin and blue crab jasmine rice cakes, to black-eyed pea salad and johnny cakes, Julep relies on recipes uncommon to most other venues in Madison. The uniquely Southern-inspired items define Julep and earn high marks.
In terms of dinner entrées, Julep’s shrimp and grits, and of course, fried chicken, do not disappoint. Served with a tasso gravy, onion and peppers, the shrimp and grits is a classic comfort food dish and Julep’s version proves why.
The grits are lusciously creamed and warm the soul with their heartiness. Plump shrimp are the prime protein option to pair with the flavorful and hearty grain. While the grits are rich, the shrimp are light and each one perfectly complements the other.
The fried chicken thigh entree is a standout in terms of crisp, quality fried chicken. The skin is seasoned and maintains its crunch. The meat is tender and dark, which ensures a moist portion of chicken.
Sitting upon a salted gravy of sorts, the chicken is satisfyingly flavored to each bite. The generously sized meat sits next to a strong helping of collard greens sautéed with ham hock. Though some may struggle to enjoy collard greens on many occasions, these greens were impressive thanks to the flavor supplied by the ham hock, and they were happily polished off.
While the three-part menu is enough to fill up most diners, the dessert selection is written to tempt. And with a wine bar and coffee shop just down the hall, the possibilities for enjoyment don’t have to stop at dinner.