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The Badger Herald

Independent Student Newspaper Since 1969

The Badger Herald

Independent Student Newspaper Since 1969

The Badger Herald

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Mezze reimagines Amy’s Café with Mediterranean dishes, crafty cocktails

Small off-State Street eatery features artful small plates, pizzas and drinks alike
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Marissa Haegele

Located just off State Street at 414 West Gilman St., Mezze boasts quirky drinks and Lebanese-inspired tapas served on mismatched vintage plates, proving that in Madison, no new restaurant would date to settle for anything less than eclectic.

Last spring, the owners of Amy’s Café decided that their venerable establishment needed a revamping, and thus Mezze was born in its place. With a focus on craft cocktails as well as beer and wine, the refined bar program makes Mezze a definite date night spot and prime option for deep conversations over drinks.

Beyond the interesting entrance that is separate from the dining space, Mezze’s attempt at a charming Mediterranean cocktail bar benefits from its cozy, intimate interior with dim lighting and simple, yet elegant design elements. With repurposed mirrors and salvaged wood, the remake of Amy’s is a respectable scene.

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To supplement its impressive libations, Mezze presents small, Mediterranean influenced plates and pizzas. The menu is divided into the three categories of cold, hot and pizza, offering a fresh approach to dining.

Attentive and patient, the staff welcomes all questions about the menu items and recommendations of popular dishes and portion sizes for tables wanting to share.

Dishes at Mezze are indeed meant for sharing, at least for the majority of the plates. From experience, the popular crispy chicken dish would be better enjoyed as an individual meal. Though the chicken thigh is tender and seasoned well, the cutting of the meat and portioning of the chicken will become too much of a battle.

The crispy chicken is served atop fried Brussel sprouts and made with anchovy, sumac butter and jus. Patrons often order this dish for a reason. Prepare for frenzy as eager forks reach to repeatedly stab up each Brussel sprout and tear at the crispy chicken skin until the plate is gone. This won’t take long.

The sweet potato kibbeh is another choice item and an enlightening combination of textures. The initial impression of the plate is that it resembles a falafel, and the waiter described it as such. This sweet potato rendition consists of lamb, puffed amaranth, saffron yogurt and green tahini. The heartier amaranth grain soaks up the savory lamb component, and the cooling yogurt and punch of tahini lighten the dish.

In addition to their regular lunch and dinner menus, Mezze regularly posts updated blackboard specials on their Instagram account (@mezzemadison) for both food and drink. From the stuffed trout special that they featured last week, this specials board has earned its merit.

The whole trout arrived filled with fluffy bulgur grain and homemade sauces on the side. The meatiness of the fish was welcome after a failed attempt at reordering the crispy chicken dish, only to face disappointment finding out that we had just finished off the last chicken.

Dishes aside, the menu touts ingredients that are in large part sourced from local farms and co-ops. Underground Meats, Elderberry Hill and Jordandal Farms are just a few of the listed suppliers for Mezze from the immediate area.

The restaurant is open at intervals throughout the day from Tuesday to Saturday, with lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., happy hour from 3-5 p.m. and dinner from 5 p.m. to midnight.

Mezze proves a respectable destination for both food and drink that’s not off the beaten path. While the food is great, the prices are steeper than expected for less than impressive portions. Prepare to pay for the quality ingredients used in these dishes that, albeit on the smaller side, are artfully prepared and warrant return visits for more.

 

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