Since its opening at the end of July, Freiburg Gastropub has offered Madison a farm-to-table approach to German cuisine. Located at 2612 Monroe St., Freiburg is a welcome addition to the majority of American-themed dining venues in this west side neighborhood.
One visit to Freiburg and misconceptions of German food are immediately corrected, for the menu at the gastropub reflects more than sauerkraut and bratwurst. To add to the authenticity, nearly every item on the menu is listed in German.
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While many of the dishes feature ingredients uncommon to other restaurants in the area, rest assured you will find the closest thing to true German food that Madison has to offer.
The restaurant is named after Madison’s sister city of Freiburg, Germany. The sister-city relationship was established in 1964 when the first group of students from University of Wisconsin decided to study at the University of Freiburg.
The familiarity is apparent upon first walking into the restaurant, where one will note the warmth emanating from Freiburg. Walking along the sidewalk and approaching the front entryway, there is a noticeable glow that radiates from the restaurant’s wall of glass windows that face out to Monroe Street.
Once inside, the atmosphere proves even more inviting. With an intricate, wood-crafted design throughout the space, Freiburg’s old-world feel offers an escape from the bright, more modern-style dining venues in town. The restaurant offers community seating and a full service bar that’s cozied off to the side of the main dining area, perfect for the solo diner or those looking to grab a drink and plates to share.
The appetizer Schweinefleisch Rillette, a pork belly pâté with dark rye toast, pickled gherkins and mustard, sounded particularly appealing. The plate is not only satisfying, but also impressive in its hearty portion size for such an agreeable price of $8.95. Pâtés are characteristically rich, yet unlike many other renditions of the item, Freiburg’s version is not overwhelming.
When smeared onto crunchy crisps of dark rye toast, the combination is luxurious. The salty flavor of both the pâté and the seasoned toast work together harmoniously. Thanks to the boldness of the pâté, the appetizer is a meal in itself.
To complement the heavier flavors of the appetizer, one can have the Kohlrabisalat, a slaw of Kohlrabi cabbage, apples and red onion in a mustard vinaigrette. The selection is listed as a side on the menu at Freiburg, but its size is impressive and appears to be more of a small salad.
The dish added a lightness to the heavier aspects of the meal. The shredded kohlrabi’s crunch, paired with the shreds of apple and onion, offered a nice variance in texture from the smoothness of the pâté of my appetizer. Delicately flavored with a mustard vinaigrette, the side is also one that I would gladly order again.
If not too stuffed from two courses, Freiburg offers a Black Forest cherry cake, Bavarian creme and a Panakuchen, or stuffed pancake.
If craving German grub in a cozy atmosphere, a miniature Deutschland is just a brisk bike ride away.
