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The Badger Herald

Independent Student Newspaper Since 1969

The Badger Herald

Independent Student Newspaper Since 1969

The Badger Herald

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More than food at neat eats on Near East Side

Why is it that, despite vast differences in culture, the experience of creating and consuming good food seems to be universal? I believe the act of sharing good food bridges all cultures and communication barriers. Picture yourself in any restaurant, anywhere in the world, sharing a dish with someone outside your culture who does not speak a word of your language. He leans forward, takes a bite, closes his eyes, and a soft “mmmm” escapes his lips. And you know exactly what he means because you’ve just done the same.

So when I started sharing this concept with others, asking them where it is that they have experienced the deepest connection with others through food, I wasn’t a bit surprised when nearly every person I spoke with pointed me to the Near East Side. But I wanted to know, what is it about the Willy Street area, its restaurants and overall vibe that make people feel as though their dining experiences there are so authentic? What I found may surprise you, just as it surprised me. I’ll give you a hint: It’s not about the food.

Monty’s Blue Plate Diner

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Located right across the street from the Barrymore Theater, Monty’s is the diner that most people mentioned when I asked their favorite place to grab breakfast. Yes, the Blue Plate Special Omelet was orgasmic (a delicious mix of bacon, avocado and Wisconsin eggs and cheese), but more often than not, the people I spoke with touted the restaurant’s thoughtfulness as the most important factor in choosing to eat there.

While I’m wolfing down my omelet, my waitress explains what’s so great about Monty’s: “Well, yes, we use local produce, but that’s becoming increasingly common now, so it’s more than that. Our coffee’s fair trade. We have vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals. Umm, our menu is printed in braille.” She laughs. “That’s pretty cool. Oh, and we own our own chickens.” They own their own chickens.

Mother Fool’s Coffeehouse

If you’ve spent any time on Willy Street, you know Mother Fool’s as the coffee shop with the rotating mural wall. Acting as a blank canvas for local and international artists alike, Mother Fool’s goes beyond its famous vegan baked goods to feature non-traditional art and inspire community creativity.

After spending some time admiring Brazilian artist Panmela Castro’s new mural, I wander inside to check out the current display, local artist Shelly VonGlahn’s “This is What Democracy Looks Like.” I ask the girl working the counter about the art, and she tells me the display is meant to remind people of the upcoming recall election. She said during the protests Motherfool’s took hundreds of mugs of hot coffee and baked goods to protesters, keeping them warm and well-fed during overnight demonstrations.

Clearly not afraid to be political, Mother Fool’s is also an activist for sustainability. One of the few places in Madison that does so, Mother Fool’s publishes its energy usage numbers for public record: In 2011, the coffee shop ran on 46.2 percent wind power. Mother Fool’s also gives away free coffee grounds for gardeners to help reduce the shop’s contribution to landfills.

The Willy Street Co-op

Community owned, the Co-op is not only a grocery store that sells local organic produce, but is also a community leader in nutritional education. I will let its members speak for themselves:

“Last week I made my own compost bin from an article they posted on Facebook on how to be greener. A compost bin. Never would have thought to make one on my own.” -Rick

“I think you can enjoy food more when you make conscious choices about where that food comes from, whether or not it has additives, how to cook that food best, that sort of thing, and I’ve learned all of that through classes here.” -Karen

“It’s not about the food, you know; it’s about feeling like you’re part of a community. There’s always someone to talk to outside, always someone playing the guitar or singing or promoting their cause; you always see people you know. It’s nice.”  -Michael

What I ultimately learned from my trips to Monty’s, Mother Fool’s and the Co-op is people want more from their food than just a delicious meal. Education, politics and environmental sustainability were three topics customers mentioned as crucial parts of their decisions to dine at each place. While it wasn’t the food that transcended culture, the values expressed by Willy Street diners can also be found across borders. If nothing else, this should remind us of the importance of being conscious about the values of the companies we, as consumers, choose to patronize.

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