You know when you have walked inside an intimate neighborhood bar for the first time. It is not so much in the appearance of different or unusual surroundings, but rather the feeling that maybe you are interrupting something sacred — similar to showing up at a small party you were not invited to.
And then there are the eyes — multiple pairs of black dots surrounded by circular flashes of white, piercing the smoke-filled haze, examining your every move, because try as you may, you stick out like a sore thumb.
But then you see a smile, are offered a greeting, and your moment of slight anxiety, guilt, or embarrassment is replaced by warmth and comfort. You are a stranger, but you are welcome here, and you may drink what you like.
To say that the Caribou Tavern, located just outside of campus on East Johnson Street, is a neighborhood bar is an understatement. The Caribou, or the “Bou” as many regulars affectionately refer to it, is the quintessential neighborhood bar.
Tucked between a Laundromat and a beauty salon, it is possible to pass by and not notice the bar. If not for the bright red neon sign, one might get the impression he is entering some type of scandalous speakeasy upon venturing inside.
Somewhat long and narrow, the stated capacity of the Bou is only 49 people. The tight fit only promotes a greater level of intimacy between the customers, and one quickly realizes that for what the Caribou lacks in size, it more than adequately compensates in character.
The clientele is a loyal bunch, and many regulars live within walking distance. On Friday nights you can find Ruth behind the bar, greeting many customers by name as she has for the past 18 years.
She explains, “This is like another living room for many people — they treat the bar like their own home.
“The difference is that it will cost you a few bucks when you come here,” Ruth adds with a coy smile.
The neighborhood’s long-time allegiance to the Caribou started many years ago. Dating back to the early 1960s, the Caribou was the creation of a larger-than-life character named Denny. Denny was a police officer, and consequently the Bou became a popular hangout for Madison’s finest, who still frequent, although most are now retired. Denny was known to go out of his way to meet his customers and was renowned for his generosity and heart.
Denny passed away several years ago, but his legacy lives on. His son, Dewey, now owns and manages the bar — this is the type of atmosphere only a family can create.
Although Denny’s undeniable presence is gone, he remains at the bar in spirit. When I asked Kevin, a bartender and recent UW grad, why he drinks Pabst Blue Ribbon in a can, I am given a simple, yet poignant response: “It is what the old man used to drink, and if it was good enough for him, it is good enough for me.”
The heart of the Caribou is its strongest characteristic, and it is quickly recognized by outsiders. Still, there are other interesting attributes to the bar. One of the first things we notice is an enormous jar of pickled eggs near the cash register. Ruth tells us that they usually serve four a night, mostly around bartime. My friend Mike makes a friendly wager that he’ll eat three eggs, so long as I eat one. Fortunately, this wager does not come to pass.
There are a number of diversions to keep you occupied while you drink. It is impossible not to notice the amazing array of snack foods, including such gems as M&M’s, Whatchamacallit’s, chips, pork rinds and popcorn.
There is a similarly large selection of over-the-counter medication ranging from Tylenol to Hall’s cough drops to Rolaids. Conveniently located next to the medicine is a box of Dutch Master cigars.
After further inspection, we notice a sign for Royal Bohemian horseradish — XXX hot, which one can buy for $5.00. There was another X on the sign, but someone crossed it out. Ruth brings us over a jar. We open the lid, and our nostrils are instantly cleared. The other side effect is burning eyes. XXX hot seems about right.
You can also grab a burger at the Caribou. The grill is hard to miss — it is set at the back of bar. It is even harder not to be intoxicated by the smell. Ruth proclaims, “We like to say we have the second best burgers in Madison, because everybody else seems to claim they have the best.”
The beer selection is agreeable but limited, almost like one would expect to find in their refrigerator at home. There are two beers on tap — Capital Brewery’s Wisconsin Amber and Berghoff Lager. The bar used to have more beers on tap, but simply ran out of space.
For me, however, I can’t go wrong with the Pabst Blue Ribbon in a can for $2.50. They also offer Old Style at the same price, but I tend to stay away from the stuff.
Ruth adds a final thought, “I just like to make people happy.” While you may never live close enough to be an actual neighbor, you can rest assured that you’ll at least be treated like one. Bartime will head to the Angelic Brewing Company, tonight, Feb. 8, 2002, where among other things we will listen to DJ Todd Richmann spin progressive house, and celebrate my birthday. Angelic is located on 322 W. Johnson St. Cheers! The Caribou Oatmeal Shot In a shaker, mix the following: 1 part Bailey’s Irish Cream 1 part Kahlua 1 part Goldschlí
