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With Madison’s colorful array of restaurants serving up a virtual United Nations in terms of international cuisine choices, it is surprising to realize one of Madison’s best eateries is not representing some exotic culinary corner of the globe but rather Western Europe, specifically Ireland. Brocach (pronounced rather like Tom Brokaw’s last name) is the restaurant themed to perfection, and its genuine feel flows like Guinness through the authentic Irish pub-like atmosphere of the large space and to its incredible Shepherd’s Pie and other Irish specialties.

Brocach, which is Gaelic for “badger den,” sits boldly on the Main Street side of Capitol Square, sticking out from the rest of the mundane buildings with its antiquated, tavern-esque facade, which is carried through with remarkable perfection throughout the entire restaurant. But neat as it is to sit in, the food is obviously the defining element of a restaurant, and Brocach makes few errors.

Reasonably priced ($10 to $20 per plate), Brocach has a fish fry to outdo most local fish fries — not to mention it’s all you can eat on Fridays for $15 — but what really makes the menu stand out are its Irish dishes. The Shepherds Pie ($12), for instance, is a hearty combination of Angus beef, peas and carrots, topped off with gently spiced mashed potatoes. Take a comfort food like this and add a pint of one of Brocach’s many European ales and lagers (this is no place for Miller Lite), and one is guaranteed to leave feeling stuffed, content and ready for a two-hour snooze. There really is no better way to end a meal.

And if you know your Irish drinks well, you may want to take advantage of their happy hour — 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday — where top shelf Irish and scotch whiskies are half-priced, so you’re more inclined to splurge on that 20-year Macallan scotch that would normally cost $20 a glass.

Also of note is Brocach’s Saturday and Sunday morning brunch, where Jameson-caramelized peach and cream pancakes ($7.95) will start any week right. And for the fan of big breakfasts, there is no better choice than the corned beef and hash ($8.95), which proves the amount of grease oozing out of a meal can be directly correlated to how unbelievably tasty it can be.

Brocach is the pub that set high aspirations and nailed it. This restaurant invites you to check your American cares at the door and concern yourself only with a hearty meal and the friends who came with you.

4 1/2 stars out of 5