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OPA! New café and lounge offers delicious cheap eats

Faux leather chairs, marble tables mark simple, open décor
OPA! New café and lounge offers delicious cheap eats

LUKAS KEAPPROTH/Herald photo

Opa Café and Lounge treats hungry diners with diverse bistro-style cuisine.

Kabul, Husnu’s, Buraka. We’ve all been there — most of us multiple times — and we all love them because nothing is more comforting to the student stomach or bank account than the cuisine and prices at these eateries.

But in the land of cheap eats, subsisting Middle Eastern restaurants, burger joints and sandwich shops lining downtown Madison’s main drag, State Street’s newest import — Opa Café and Lounge — is a change of pace that offers diners a changing monthly menu at an easy-on-the-student-bank-account price.

The dishes at Opa Café and Lounge, located in Afghani eatery Maza Restaurant’s former 500 block location, are rooted in American and European bistro-style cuisine, with first-course options ranging from the charcuterie to the Belgian endive and frisée salad to the main course of braised lamb shank. Big names, but small prices at $11, $8 and $13, respectively, with the latter the most expensive item on the new October menu.

The dinner choices at Opa Café and Lounge are intimidating at first — culinary terms like “gastrique,” “mirepoix” and “béchamel” dot the menu — but the simple décor and friendly staff put diners at ease. The table settings are simple: the moderately-sized lounge is filled with high-backed, red faux leather chairs and marble tables, and the open concept of the dining area and kitchen allows diners to watch the chefs as they prepare dishes.

And it’s these dishes that really stand out at Opa Café and Lounge. For dinner, I tried the lardon and root vegetable stuffed quail with risotto ($9) off the recently changed September menu, a dish which wins on the risotto alone. Smooth without being too heavy or gloppy, a hint of wine shines through the creaminess, and the lardons — small, crunchy cubes of pork fat meant for seasoning — and the few side slices of fresh green apple added a bit of texture to the dish. The quail was also nicely cooked, and the overall dish was just enough to be satisfying without weighing me down.

On a later visit, I turned to the steak sandwich with caramelized onions, horseradish aioli and arugula on brioche ($9), while a lunch companion tried the chicken sandwich with hummus, lettuce, onion and tomato on ciabatta bread ($8). The slightest bit of bleu cheese added some tanginess to the filling steak sandwich, though it was slightly messy, while my lunch companion said the chicken in her sandwich was nicely seasoned. The piles that accompanied both of our sandwiches quickly disappeared.

But our misstep came with dessert. Initially, we had hoped to try the quince brown betty ($7), but the restaurant’s transition to the October menu caused us to settle on the vanilla crème brûlée with fresh berries ($7), a dessert for which both my companion and I admit to having high standards. Unfortunately, it wasn’t there with the confection. The crème brûlée still hadn’t completely set when cooked, and it was too sweet for our liking, though the accompanying strawberry helped cut the sweetness somewhat.

Overall, the dining experience at Opa Café and Lounge is a favorable one. But the devil is still in the details, and this establishment has just a few problems. As of Wednesday afternoon, for example, the restaurant still had not crafted a drink list. Opa’s liquor selection in general is fairly limited — a challenge for an establishment hoping to partially root itself in the lounge tradition.

But let’s chalk these kinks up to the restaurant opening less than three weeks ago. The food at Opa Café and Lounge certainly overshadows them, offering quality dishes at more than reasonable prices — especially for students on limited budgets.

4 stars out of 5.

3 Comments | Leave a comment

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Sarah’s restaurant reviews are always the best. You set the tone of the restaurant so well I want to go there for dinner tonight.

Great job on the review Sarah. Of course we all have our priorities like drinks! I’m just sayin’…:-)

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Chef Made Mike is a wizard in the kitchen

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