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Asparagus hints at feast to come

For people who love food, spring promises great things. After months of eating preserved foods and produce flown in from South America, fresh, local food finally reappears. Soon, fresh fruits and vegetables from the state and even our county will be available at both grocery stores and the Dane County Farmers’ Market, which returns to Capitol Square April 19.

One of the first vegetables to poke out of the springtime soil is asparagus. Not only are dishes made with this vegetable delicious, but they are also a prelude to several months filled with cookouts, baseball and a rainbow of locally-grown edible plants.

Although there is some asparagus production in Wisconsin, most of the U.S. crop is grown in California, Washington and Michigan. Sadly, for those of us who shop exclusively at grocery stores, most asparagus we eat comes from these three states.

From an ecological standpoint, however, even out-of-state produce is preferable to vegetables grown in other countries. Because the product has to travel shorter distances, vendors use less fossil fuel in transporting it.

Wherever it comes from, asparagus is a remarkable vegetable many people have prized as both delicious and healthful.

In fact, some feel asparagus is an aphrodisiac. Historians argue this reputation stems from the vegetable’s resemblance to a certain part of the male anatomy. Considering the shape and size of most stalks of asparagus, Seriously Hungry officially feels sorry for these historians.

One alternative explanation for asparagus’s alleged aphrodisiac effects stems from ancient societies’ poor nutrition. Because people living in these civilizations had less access to nutritious fruits and vegetables, eating them may have given them the energy for romantic pursuits. The modern perception of asparagus as an aphrodisiac may simply be due to historic inertia.

A more scientifically supported benefit of asparagus is its cleansing nature. Many people, from the ancient Greeks to modern believers in holistic medicine, have prized asparagus for its purifying effects. This reputation probably derives from the fact that the vegetable is a natural diuretic; its combination of high potassium and low sodium levels and its amino acid profile foster urine production.

However, not everyone is a fan of asparagus’s diuretic effects. Many complain an unpleasant urinary odor follows their pleasant dining experience.

Surprisingly, there is a good deal of debate over just what causes this putrid pee. Most scientists agree the culprit is methylmercaptan, a metabolite of an amino acid in asparagus. Others argue that other metabolites or even a combination of them are responsible, but there is broad agreement that at least one of the amino acids in the plant is fundamentally responsible.

Another point of agreement about the great liquid waste stench controversy is that everybody who eats the vegetable has smelly urine. Individuals who vehemently deny this are not lying outright, however; their urine probably indeed does not smell to them.

There is actually a large percentage of the population physically unable to smell the chemicals that sully the air of the asparagus-eater’s bathroom. Fortunately for those of us who can detect the odor, modern deodorizing technology has effectively negated this excuse for not eating asparagus.

Although the American varieties of this tasty harbinger of stink are generally green, it comes in a wide variety of colors. Europeans, for example, tend to prefer white asparagus, in spite of the fact that it is less nutritious than its green cousin.

This odd color variation comes not from a different plant but as a result of growing techniques. By piling dirt on top of emerging asparagus buds, farmers can shield their crops from sunlight and produce the white stalks European diners demand. Purple and pink asparagus, on the other hand, result from a species variation.

In light of the vegetable’s status as the first fresh produce of the spring harvest, it is unsurprising that people have speculated at its aphrodisiac effects, marveled at its cleansing power and admired its variety of colors. Whatever you feel about asparagus, eating it is a great way to celebrate the arrival of spring. Just make sure to leave the fan on.

 

Jason Engelhart is a senior majoring in economics and history. Offended historians and others may direct their hate mail and questions to jengelhart@badgerherald.com.